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Questions                                            Where,
       A  Calculate the tex-count of nylon yarn, if the length of   N = Yarn count or number system
          yarn is 20000 yards & its weight is 400 gram’s.
                                                            W = Weight of the sample at the official regain in the
       Answer                                                  units of the system
       1   yard = 0.9144 meter                              L = Length of the sample
             1000 x Weight in gram’s                        L = Units of length of sample
       Tex =
                Length in meter’s                           W = Units of weight of sample
               1000 x 400
       Tex =                                                 Numbering system       Units of      Units of
             20000 x 0.9144                                                        length (l)    weight (w)
                                                             English cotton count  840 yards    1 pound (lb.)
       Tex = 21.87                                           (Ne)                      Length in yards
       2  Denier                                             Metric count (Nm)   1000 meters /  1 kg
                                                                                      840 x Weight in lbs
       In the direct denier system, the yarn count number                        1km
       indicates the weight in grams of 9000 meters of yarn.  Woolen      count   256 yards     1 pound (lb.)
                9000 x Weight in grams                       (YSM)
       Denier =                                              Worsted count       560 yards      1 pound (lb.)
                    Length in meter
                                                             French cotton count  1000 meters   500 grams
       Example: 30 Denier indicates that 9000 meters of yarn   Linen count       300 yards      1 pound (lb.)
       weight 30 grams.
                                                            1  English cotton count (Ne): This also known as
       Questions                                               British count or English count. This defined as the
       A  The yarn of polyester filament weighing 50 grams in   number of hanks each of 840 yards weighing in one
          6000 meter length calculate the Denier of the yarn.  pound of the yarn.
       Answer                                                                          Length in yards
                                                            English cotton count (Ne) =
                9000 x Weight in grams                                                840 x Weight in lbs
       Denier =
                    Length in meter                         Example
                 9000 x 50                                  A  30/1 cotton (1 means single yarn) indices that 30 x
       Denier =                                                840 yards of yarn weight 1 pound.
                   6000
                                                            B  40/2  cotton  (2  means  ply  yarn)  indicates  that  20
       Denier = 75.                                            (Resultant count) x 840 yards of yarn weight 1 pound.
       2  Indirect yarn numbering system [length/unit       Questions
          mass]
                                                            A  A yarn having length of 90,000 yards and its weight
       Indirect yarn numbering system also known as length per   in 2 pounds calculate its English count.
       unit mass of yarn. Hence in this system higher the yarn
       number or count indicates the finer or lighter the yarn   Answer:
       size and smaller the yarn number or count indicates the                         Length in yards
       coarser or thicker the yarn size. This system is generally   English cotton count (Ne) =  840 x Weight in lbs
       used for English cotton count, Worsted count, Linen        90,000
       count, Woollen count, French cotton count and metric   Ne =
       count. As compared to direct yarn numbering system this    840 x 2
       system is very easy to calculate weight of the fabric, when   English cotton count (Ne) = 53.57
       the count of warp and weft are expressed in this system.
       The amount of twist in the yarn and cloth setting (threads   2  Worsted count (Nm)
       per inch) are directly proportionally to the square root of   It  is  defined  as  the  no.  of  hanks  each  of  560  yards
       yarn count and very difficult to calculate. The count does   weighing in one pound of the yarn.
       not express the size of the yarn directly. And a coarser
       or bulky yarn will have a small count number than a finer                   Length in yards
       or less bulky yarn. And it is very difficult to calculate the   Worsted count (Nm) =   560 x Weight in lbs
       resultant count of the folded yarn in this system, when   Example
       the component threads are different counts.
                                                            A  1/20 worsted cotton indicates that 20 × 560 yards of
       The following formula is used to calculate the indirect   yarn 1 pound.
       yarn count
                                                            B  3/40 worsted cotton indicates that 13.33 (Resultant
       N = (L × w)/ W ×l                                       count) × 560 yards of yarn.

       58          Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.4.36&37
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